Showing posts with label design. Show all posts
Showing posts with label design. Show all posts

Thursday, March 08, 2007

Knitting a cap - design discussion (updated)

Having knit a few caps, here're some notes on the design:

Number of stitches to cast on = 0.85 * stitch gauge (in stitches per inch)* circumference of head (in inches)

If you like a warm ear band of height h:

cast on provisional, knit h inches, purl one row, knit another h inches. Now fold over (along the purl ridge) and join the cast on stitches to each corresponding live stitch. Alternately, you can hem it together during the finishing.

To make the inner flap snug, use 2x2 rib instead of plain stockinette.

Other techniques for making the ear band warmer:
1. Fair Isle/colour stranding: this creates a double layer, making the ear flap 3 layers thick.
2. Line with soft felt. This although may seem like work, will make the cap that much more wearable in winter.
3. Knit ear flaps like the South American Chullo. To make this, first knit 2 ear flaps for desired length which you can join at the appropriate positions once the ear band is knit for 2 rows.

Update:
The no-rib ski cap I'd knit recently hadn't turn out quite as warm around the ears as I'd wanted, possibly because of the acrylic content in the yarn. Also maybe due to a lack of colour-work or ribbing. So you see, the 3 points I'd written above were what I learned from the project. Option #2 seemed to be the best fix and I got right down to the task. I knit and fulled 2 strips, placed them on the inner side and hand-stitched them in place.

The no-rib ski cap with colour stranding

Inner flap lined with fulled strip

Here's to a toasty cap!

Cardi-3d - a design discussion

First, the test results from a sample I knit using the PERL calculator.

Attributes used:
#
#Gauge:
#
Stitches per inch: 5

#
#Dimensions in inches:
#
Circumference of sleeve: 6
Width of jacket: 5.75
Length of jacket: 9
Depth of neck: 1.5
Width of neck: 2.5
Width of placket: 0.8

Test result: Success.

Realistically, I was off on the intended gauge by about 3/4th of a stitch and so the cardi was slightly larger when finished.

Pictures of the knit sample:

Flying carpet? Or a stripey tail-less ray swimming away?

Note the 3 buttonholes.

See the reversing symmetry in the colour striping?

Some issues that I had to ponder over:
1. Technique for double decrease:
This was relatively simple. The one I selected was:
slip 2 knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitches over the knit stitch. This one works well as it gives a neat symmetry to the double decrease with the middle knit stitch sitting uppermost and prominent.

2. Technique for double increase:
Here I had a few options that I tested.
a. M1 left and right by knitting into the stitch 2 rows below the new row being worked.
This method creates large holes.
b. yo appropriately and knit into them twisted on the reverse row.
This too has much too much yarn for the stretchy garter to handle.
c. kf/b twice consecutively.
Not tried. If this one doesn't create a row of holes, it will be perfect as the look will match that of the double decrease of choice.
d. pick bridge yarn between 2 stitches, twist and knit into it, knit the next stitch and increase again like the first.
This was my choice as it gives strength and stability by knitting away the excess yarn. No holes to worry over whatsoever. However, the look does not match that of the double decrease.

3. Shaping on the RS or WS
If the increases and decreases all occur on the RS (or the public side) of garment, the stitch pattern thus caused will be available for all to see. If implementing this way, you'll have to select your double increase and decrease patterns to match up nicely in appearance. However, as the ones I had used were not so, I chose to do the increases and decreases on the WS of the cardi. The look is subtle and the stitch pattern in the corners (where the inc/dec occur) do not really become the focus. I liked it this way.

4. Striping
Any guesses on the striping design?

5. Discoveries
Garter is much slower than stockinette-based stitch patterns, and uses much more yarn to knit up the same surface area of fabric.

The cardi-3d is a basic pattern that can be used as template for incorporating stitch patterns and colours to make it more interesting. It's also a warm wrap for infants, the front-open making it easy to put on and slip out. Perhaps a knit belt can turn it into an infant bath-robe of sorts. I also have some ideas on changing the shape of the button panel using short rows.